Clutch Cable | Honda 350-Series Twins

Description

Clutch Cable | Honda CB350 / CL350 / SL350

A worn, sticky, or frayed clutch cable makes shifting unreliable and riding miserable. This replacement clutch cable restores smooth clutch action to your Honda 350-series twin. Available in two lengths to fit CB350, CL350 Scrambler, and SL350 motorcyclesselect the correct length for your model when ordering.

Why You Need This

Over the years, the original clutch cable on your Honda CB350, CL350, or SL350 deteriorates. Rust and corrosion build up inside the housing, the wire frays near the barrel ends, and the cable becomes stiff and hard to pull. A sticky cable creates a vague clutch feel, makes it harder to find the engagement point, and puts unnecessary stress on the clutch lifter mechanism. If the cable is bent, kinked, or has visible wire strands poking out of the housing, it needs to be replaced.

We offer two cable lengths so you can order the correct one for your specific model or handlebar setup. Measure your old cable before ordering to confirm the right fit.

Specifications

Dimensions

Model-Specific Notes

• CB350 K0K5: The 46.5-inch cable is a direct replacement for all CB350 model years (19681973).
• CL350 K0K5 Scrambler: The 51.5-inch cable is a direct replacement for all CL350 Scrambler model years (19681973).
• SL350 K0: The 51.5-inch cable is a direct replacement for the SL350 K0.
• SL350 K1 & K2: The 51.5-inch cable fits the SL350 K1 and K2 but is approximately 1.5 inches longer than the factory cable. It works, but is not an exact stock length match.

Installation

Difficulty: Beginner

1. Loosen the upper cable adjuster at the clutch lever to create maximum slack in the old cable.
2. Disconnect the cable from the clutch lever perch and from the clutch lifter mechanism on the left side engine cover.
3. Route the new cable along the same path as the old one, following the frame and avoiding sharp bends or kinks.
4. Connect the new cable at both endsclutch lever and engine-side lifter mechanism.
5. Adjust the clutch: at the engine-side adjuster, turn the adjuster counterclockwise until you feel resistance (this eliminates push-rod play), then back it off approximately one quarter turn and lock the nut. Use the upper barrel adjuster at the lever to remove remaining cable slack.
6. Check that the clutch lever has free play in the first quarter to one-third of its travel before engagement begins. The barrel adjuster at the lever only removes slackthe actual clutch adjustment is made at the engine-side adjuster.

Lubricate the new cable before installation. New cables do not come pre-lubricated from the factory. Drip a lightweight oil (such as Marvel Mystery Oil) into each end of the housing and let gravity pull it through. Work the cable back and forth to distribute the oil inside the housing. A well-lubricated cable feels smooth and lasts longer.