Gasket Kit (Oil Change) | Honda CB200 / CL200

Description

Oil Change Gasket Kit | Honda CB200 / CL200

Every CB200 oil change needs a fresh drain plug O-ring at minimum. If you’re cleaning the centrifugal oil filter and rotor — recommended every other oil change — the whole right side cover has to come off, which means new gaskets for both the cover itself and the rotor underneath. This kit bundles all 6 gasket types you need for an oil change with filter clean on any CB200 or CL200 from 1973 through 1976.

Why You Need This

Honda specs the CB200 family oil change at every 3,000 miles. We recommend a more conservative 1,500-mile interval — these little parallel twins work hard and the oil shears down faster than the factory schedule assumes. The factory schedule calls for cleaning the centrifugal filter and oil rotor every other oil change (every 3,000 miles by our timing). That’s the operation this kit is built for.

The CB200 oil system is doubly filtered — a screen filter on the pump inlet catches coarse debris, and a centrifugal rotor on the pump outlet spins out fine particles. Skip the filter clean and sludge packs into the rotor over time, choking off oil delivery to the top end.

Here’s where CB200 differs from its CB175 sibling: the 175 has an access panel on the right side cover that lets you reach the filter without pulling the whole cover. The CB200 doesn’t. To clean the filter on a CB200, the entire right crankcase cover has to come off — which means the cover gasket and rotor cover gasket both get broken. In the past, you either reused old gaskets (which leak) or bought a full overhaul kit and paid for parts you didn’t need. This kit gives you exactly the 6 gasket types required for an oil change with filter clean on a CB200. Nothing extra.

Specifications

Important: Use 100% mineral 10W-40 only. Most modern diesel oils — Shell Rotella T4, Chevron Delo 400, Mobil Delvac 1300 — reformulated to semi-synthetic in late 2023. Semi-synthetic causes clutch slip on these wet-clutch engines. 15W-40 mineral diesel oil is fine as an alternative if you can verify it’s still 100% mineral.

Gasket grease trick: Apply a thin layer of grease to both faces of each new gasket during install. Next time you pull the cover, the gasket releases cleanly and you may be able to reuse it.

CB200-specific reassembly note: The oil filter cover access screw should be a button-head Allen (M6 × 20), not a socket-head. The socket-head’s larger top mass restricts oil flow through the passageway behind it.

What’s in the Kit

• A: Stator Rotor Cover Bolt O-Rings — 3 pieces
• B: Oil Rotor Cover O-Ring — 1 piece
• C: Oil Drain Plug O-Ring — 1 piece
• D: Oil Pump Gasket — 1 piece
• E: Stator Rotor Cover Gasket — 1 piece
• F: Right Crankcase Cover Gasket — 1 piece

Total: 8 pieces, 6 unique gasket types.

Installation

Difficulty: Intermediate — more involved than the CB175 because the whole right cover has to come off, including muffler removal on CB200.

Tools needed: Wrench/socket for drain plug, JIS or Allen driver for cover bolts, M8 × 1.25 pitch bolt (for rotor cover puller), oil drain pan, lint-free rag, razor blade or gasket scraper, fresh 10W-40 mineral oil (about 1.8 qt), zinc ZDDP additive (2 oz).

1. Warm the engine, place on center stand. Have a drain pan ready.
2. Break the drain plug loose with a breaker bar — turn the right direction or you’ll strip the threads. Drain the oil.
3. Kick the engine over a few times to clear the last of the oil.
4. Inspect the drain plug for thread or hex damage. Replace if rounded off.
5. Quick path (oil change only): Replace the drain plug O-ring (Letter C). Move to step 14.
6. Full path (oil change with filter clean): Remove the right footrest. Remove the muffler (CB200 only — CL200’s exhaust routes differently and doesn’t need removal). Remove the kickstart pedal.
7. Loosen the right side cover bolts in a star pattern. If they’re original JIS Phillips, an impact driver helps break them loose — consider switching to Allen bolts on reassembly. Tap the cover lightly with a rubber mallet to break the gasket seal. (If you greased the gasket on a prior service, it may release cleanly.)
8. To pop the rotor cover for cleaning, thread an M8 × 1.25 pitch bolt into the center until it bottoms on the crankshaft and pushes the cover off.
9. Wipe sludge from the rotor and filter chamber with a lint-free cloth. Blow the rotor clean with compressed air.
10. Scrape any remaining gasket material from the case and cover sealing surfaces with a razor blade or gasket scraper. Don’t gouge the aluminum.
11. Apply a thin coat of grease to both faces of each new gasket — Letter B (rotor cover O-ring), Letter D (oil pump gasket if pump was removed), Letter E (rotor cover gasket), Letter F (right crankcase cover gasket).
12. Reinstall the rotor cover with new gaskets B and E. Use new Letter A O-rings on the rotor cover bolts. For the filter cover access screw, use a button-head Allen (M6 × 20), not a socket-head — the larger head restricts oil flow through the passageway.
13. Apply anti-seize to the right side cover bolt threads. Reinstall the cover with new gasket F. Cross-pattern tighten from middle outward. Torque the 6mm cover bolts to 5.1-8.0 ft-lbs (70-110 kg-cm).
14. Reinstall the kickstart pedal, muffler (if removed), and right footrest.
15. Replace the drain plug O-ring (Letter C). Reinstall the drain plug — snug, do not over-tighten. Honda doesn’t publish a specific drain plug torque, so use feel.
16. Refill with 1.7 L (1.8 US qt) SAE 10W-40 mineral oil. Add 2 oz zinc ZDDP additive.
17. Run the engine briefly. Check for leaks at the cover and drain plug. Re-check oil level on the dipstick — pull it, wipe it, drop it back in (don’t thread it), then pull and read.

If you’re going deeper to clean the mesh pickup screen on the pump inlet: That requires removing the clutch basket and the oil pump itself. The Service Kit (4180) covers the gaskets you’ll need for that level of access.