Gasket Kit (Service) | Honda CL360 / CJ360 / CB360

Description

Honda CL360 / CJ360 / CB360 Gasket Kit (Service)

Side covers come off. Points cover comes off. Carbs come off. The CB360 has a handful of paper gaskets and O-rings that get torn or hardened every time these covers move — and the only way to seal them back up properly is with new ones. This kit has all 9 gasket types (11 pieces) for the routinely serviced covers on a Honda CB360 family engine.

Why You Need This

The Service kit is the middle tier of three CB360 family gasket kits (Oil Change A–E, Service A–I, Overhaul A–T). Choose this kit when you’re doing more than just an oil change but not pulling the engine apart — ignition timing or points service (Letter H), intake reseal during carb work (Letter F), breather inspection (Letter G), or stator/alternator work and left-side service (Letter I). Letters A–E carry over from the Oil Change tier so the kit also handles routine oil and filter clean work.

Paper gaskets compress against the mating surface during the first install. Pulling them off and reusing them produces a poor seal even if they look intact. O-rings take a set and don’t return. Reusing them after a service is the fast path to a fresh oil weep within a few hundred miles.

Specifications

Note — CB360 has no paper valve cover gasket. Honda seals the CB360 valve covers with Hondabond 4 (or equivalent anaerobic gasket maker), not a paper gasket. If you’re servicing valves and looking for a paper valve cover gasket, none exists for this engine — pick up Honda Bond 4 instead.

Note — this is a paper gasket / O-ring kit only. It does not include the cam seal at the back of the points cavity or the small rubber plugs behind the points plate. If your oil leak is coming from behind the points plate rather than from under the cover, those are separate parts — contact us with a photo of the leak source and we can route you correctly.

Model-Specific Notes

• CB360G = 1974 only. CB360T = 1975–1976. Honda did not make a CB360 in 1973 — if your bike’s title says “1973 CB360,” it’s almost certainly a CB350K5 (the final 1973 350 twin) with the wrong year stamped at registration. Verify the engine number before ordering.
• CL360 Scrambler = 1974 (K0) and 1975 (K1) only. Honda never produced a CL360 K2. Same engine and gasket set as CB360.
• CJ360T = 1976–1977. Same engine and gasket set as CB360, but the CJ360 has a 2-into-1 exhaust routing — doesn’t change the gasket kit.
• Does not fit CB350 / CL350 / SL350 / CB400F / CB450. Each is a different engine architecture with different gasket sizes. For CB350 family, see our CB350 Service Gasket Kit.

What’s in the Kit

This Service kit includes everything from the Oil Change kit (Letters A–E) plus 4 more gaskets (F–I) that get touched during deeper service: intake manifolds, breather cover, points cover, and left crankcase cover.

Installation

Difficulty: Intermediate

Tools needed: JIS Phillips driver (or upgrade to Lower Allen Bolt Kit + Upper Allen Bolt Kit), 17mm wrench (drain plug), torque wrench, single-edge razor blade, acetone, anti-seize, Honda Bond 4 or Gaskacinch.

1. Drain the engine oil. The Service kit is for cover work, but it pays to drain rather than work over a slow drip from disturbed covers.
2. Right crankcase cover work (Letter E). Remove the right footrest and kick starter pedal first, then back out the 6mm Phillips screws (or Allen bolts if you’ve upgraded). Pull the cover straight off — the centrifugal oil filter is built into this cover, so handle gently if oil is still inside.
3. Letters A, B, C, D — the rotor / stator stack. With the right cover off, the alternator rotor and oil filter rotor are exposed. Replace the three stator-cover bolt O-rings (A), the oil pick-up tube O-ring (B), the oil rotor O-ring (C), and the stator rotor cover gasket (D) on reassembly.
4. Left crankcase cover work (Letter I). The left cover houses the alternator stator and the shifter. Drain oil before removing — oil sits behind this cover too. Disconnect the stator and neutral lead wires inside, then pull the cover and replace the gasket. Note: deeper left-side work (starter clutch service, transmission access) requires engine removal — that’s an Overhaul-tier job, not Service.
5. Carb / intake reseal (Letter F). To replace the two paper intake manifold gaskets, remove the carbs as an assembly. Loosen the locking lugs and bolt on the connector joint between carbs, then back out the four screws holding the carbs to the stay plate. Reseal with new gaskets, then bench-sync and vacuum-sync the carbs — use our Carb Sync Tool Kit. Idle should land at 1,200 RPM warm.
6. Breather cover (Letter G). Small left-engine cover for the crankcase breather. Back out the cover screws, clean both mating surfaces, and reseat with the new paper gasket.
7. Points cover (Letter H) — ignition timing service. Pull the points cover (consider swapping the cover’s flat-head screws for the Allen-head ignition points mounting screw set on reassembly). Inspect the contact faces, set the gap to 0.012–0.016 in (0.3–0.4 mm), then set static timing so the points just begin to open as the rotor’s LF mark aligns for the left cylinder and F mark for the right. Replace the points cover gasket. Walkthrough video below.
8. Cover reassembly — install gaskets dry, or with a light coat of Gaskacinch. Do NOT use RTV silicone. RTV sheds debris into the oil galleries on these wet-clutch engines. Honda Bond 4 is fine for crankcase mating surfaces but not for the paper gaskets in this kit.
9. Torque the 6mm crankcase cover bolts to 0.7–1.1 kg-m (5.1–8.0 lb-ft) in a criss-cross pattern. Uneven loading is the most common cause of post-service leaks on these covers.
10. Refill engine oil. 1.5 L / 1.6 US qt of SAE 10W-40 100% mineral oil + 2 oz of Zinc ZDDP additive per quart. Avoid semi-synthetic oils — modern reformulated diesel oils (Shell Rotella T4, Chevron Delo 400, Mobil Delvac 1300, all reformulated to semi-synthetic in late 2023) cause clutch slip on CB360 wet clutches.

Installation Tip: Clean every sealing surface with a single-edge razor and acetone before applying the new gasket. Pull off any residue from previous silicone use — old silicone is the 1 reason a fresh gasket still leaks.