Rear Chain Sprocket | Honda 350 / 360

Description

Rear Chain Sprocket | Honda CB350 / CL350 / CB360 / CL360 / CJ360

The rear sprocket takes a beating from high mileage, loose chain adjustment, and missed lubrication — and once the teeth wear, it will chew through a fresh chain. This is a steel replacement rear drive sprocket for Honda CB350 / CL350 Scrambler, CB360 / CL360, and CJ360 motorcycles, made from top quality steel just like the originals and available in three tooth counts on the factory 530 chain pitch.

Why You Need This

When your rear sprocket’s teeth are thin and pointy and show asymmetrical wear, the sprocket is worn and should be replaced. The rear is the driven sprocket — the chain pulls it — and it is made of softer steel than the front, so unlike a Honda front sprocket it cannot be flipped over for extra life. One direction only: once it is worn, replace it.

All three tooth counts fit every model in the chart below, which means you can keep the factory final-drive ratio or change it to fit your riding style. More teeth on the rear gives better low-end acceleration with reduced top speed; fewer teeth gives better top end with reduced acceleration. Either way, pay attention to the chain length — the link count has to match your front and rear combination.

Specifications

Note: A new drive chain cut to the proper link count should be installed when changing the rear sprocket — and if you change tooth counts, the link count changes with it. As a rule of thumb, adding two teeth at the rear adds about two links of chain.

Note: A small percent of very early CB350 and CL350 models use a rare sprocket mounting stud with a slightly smaller flange. Back in the day Honda made a unique sprocket with a larger inner flange to accommodate this design, but this version of sprocket is now considered obsolete. Our replacement sprocket will work great with these models still. The flange is used to hold the sprocket mounting stud in place while the nut is torqued. Once torqued, the torque and large snap ring are responsible for the load on the sprocket. Since this unique mounting stud uses a smaller flange, it will just spin in place while trying to torque the nuts. To torque the nuts in place with our sprocket, clamp the sprocket mounting stud in place in a vice while you torque each stud. Be sure to use wood or rubber in between the vise and mounting stud so the surface does not get torn up. Once all 4 studs and nuts are properly clamped, the sprocket assembly can be slide onto the wheel as a single piece.

Model-Specific Notes

• CB360 / CL360: The final driven sprocket and its fixing studs are made as one piece and retained by a snap ring, so there is no separate bend-tab lock plate on these models — use blue thread locker on the nuts during reassembly.
• CB350 / CL350: The sprocket nuts are held by a lock plate with bend-up tabs — bend the tabs back over the nut flats once everything is torqued down.
• SL350 K1 / K2: Does NOT fit. Those models run a 520-pitch drivetrain, and this is a 530-pitch sprocket.
• SL350 K0: Runs the 530 chain but is not listed for this sprocket — contact us before ordering.
• CB450 / CL450 / CB500T: Different rear sprocket — see the CB450 / CL450 / CB500T Rear Chain Sprocket.

Installation

Difficulty: Intermediate

Replace the rear sprocket, front sprocket, and drive chain together — a new part running against worn ones wears out early. If you changed tooth counts, count the chain against the new combination instead of assuming the factory number; our chain length counting guide walks through it.

Once the wheel is back in, set the chain slack to 1–2 cm (0.4–0.8 in.) at the midpoint of the lower run — too loose causes chain knock, too tight robs power — and keep the chain lubed. Chain care is what preserves sprocket life.