Rear Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit | Honda CB350 / CL350 / CB360 / CL360

Description

Rear Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit | Honda CB350 / CB360

Wheel bearings are what let your Honda’s rear wheel spin smooth and true, and they are one of the most overlooked parts on these bikes — most are still riding on whatever the previous owner left in the hub. This kit covers the rear drum-brake hub on the CB350 / CL350 / SL350 K0 and the CB360 / CL360 / CJ360 with top quality European made bearings and a fresh dust seal.

Why You Need This

Worn rear wheel bearings let the wheel develop play and wobble — and it only gets worse the more you ride. If your rear bearings are oozing grease, feel crunchy when you spin the wheel, or show lateral play (back-and-forth movement perpendicular to the axle), it is time to replace them.

These are sealed bearings, not the kind you repack — once they are dry or contaminated, fresh ones are the fix. Our kit pairs the large drive-side bearing with the smaller brake-side bearing and includes the dust seal, with ample grease packing in both.

What’s in the Kit

• Drive side (large) rear wheel bearing
• Brake side (small) rear wheel bearing
• Dust seal

Specifications

SL350 owners: This kit fits the SL350 K0 (1969–1970). The SL350 K1 and K2 (1971–1973) use a different, smaller rear drum and are not covered here.

Note: The bearing retainer itself is not part of this kit. If yours gets chewed up on the way out, grab a replacement retainer (also available as an add-on above).

Installation

Difficulty: Intermediate

1. The factory bearing retainer is staked into the hub. Drill the peen marks ever so slightly with a sharp 1/8″ drill bit — just past the surface, no deeper — then soak the retainer in penetrating oil.
2. Heat the hub with a heat gun to expand the aluminum, then back the retainer out with the retainer tool. Heat is what gets retainers and bearings out without a fight.
3. Drive the old bearings out with a long punch or drift worked at an angle on the inner edge — carefully, so you do not damage the hub. A hot hub will often give them up with light taps.
4. Toss the new bearings in the freezer for a few hours before the job. Install the bearing on the retainer side first — that side of the hub has a seat lip that sets the depth — and account for every spacer that came out. On the 360 rear hub, one of the spacers rides on the bearing’s inner race, so note where each one goes.
5. Drive the new bearings in with a large socket or tube just smaller than the bearing’s outer race. Do not press on the inner race or the dust covers — that damages the bearing.
6. Reinstall the retainer with anti-seize on the threads — it should go mostly by hand once the threads are clean — then stake it in a few places with a center punch so it cannot back out.