Throttle Cable | Honda CB175 / CL175 / CB200

Description

Throttle Cable for Honda CB175 / CL175 / SL175 / CB200 / CL200

Replacement throttle cable for the Honda 175 and 200 twin-cylinder family. 1-into-2 split design — a single cable runs from the throttle grip and splits into two ends, one for each carburetor. Available in CB-length (road bikes) and longer CL/SL-length (scrambler/enduro). Replaces OEM Honda 17910-389-405 (CB175 / CL175 family) and 17910-313-405 (CB200 family).

Why You Need This

Your throttle cable is the direct mechanical link between your right hand and the engine. After 50 years, the inner wire stretches unevenly at the split ends, the housing kinks or cracks, and the cable starts dragging inside the housing. The diagnostic test is simple: roll the throttle, let go — the throttle should snap shut like a mousetrap. If it hangs, returns slow, or feels gritty when you work it, the cable is dry, frayed, or both.

These bikes are particularly sensitive to cable condition because the carburetors share one cable through the splitter. A dragging cable on one side prevents the carbs from synchronizing properly, which leads to uneven idle, surging, and the kind of carb-sync chase that never quite ends. New cable in good shape is the prerequisite for a clean carb sync.

Specifications

Important Notes

The splitter is one molded piece — it does not come apart. The cable arrives pre-assembled. Just install both lower ends on the carburetors and route the upper end to the throttle grip.

Smooth carb-end housing is correct. Original Honda cables had threaded carb-end housings that screwed into the carburetor top cap. Our replacement uses smooth housings, and the rubber locking boot at each end takes the place of the threaded interface — the boot has a hexagonal inside diameter that clamps onto the brass adjuster and locks it to the top cap. Both designs do the same job.

Carburetor sync is required after install. A new throttle cable changes the slack in the system. Plan to bench-sync the carburetors after installing the cable.

Model-Specific Notes

• CB175 / CB200 (road bikes): Use the shorter CB-length cable. Routing is direct from the right-side switch box, behind the headlight ear, around the steering head, under the left tank rubber, splitter at the frame backbone above the front engine mount.
• CL175 / SL175 / CL200 (scrambler/enduro): Use the longer CL/SL-length cable. Different bars and tank position require additional cable length for clean routing.
• Does NOT fit CB125, CB160, or CL160. Different engines, different carburetors, different cable architecture. Contact us if you have one of those models and we will point you to the correct part.

Installation

Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate. The cable swap is straightforward; the carb sync afterward is the time-consuming part.

Tools needed: Phillips or JIS screwdriver, 8 mm and 10 mm wrenches (for the upper jam nuts), 14 mm wrench (elbow jam nut), Marvel Mystery Oil or light machine oil, light grease for the throttle sleeve.

1. Remove the old cable from the carburetors. Note which end goes to the left carb and which goes to the right.
2. Disconnect from the throttle grip housing. Loosen the upper jam nut and slide the cable out of the throttle pipe.
3. Lubricate the new cable before installing. Loop the cable so both ends point up. Drip 15–20 drops of Marvel Mystery Oil into each end. Let gravity pull the oil down the housing. Work the cable back and forth and let it hang for ten minutes. Repeat the other side.
4. Lubricate the nylon throttle sleeve. Apply a thin layer of light grease to the sleeve and the inside of the throttle housing. A grease-and-oil slurry (light grease thinned with a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil) coats more evenly than pure grease.
5. Route the new cable. Run from the right-hand switch box, behind the headlight ear, around the front of the steering head, and under the left-side rubber tank mount. The splitter rests against the frame backbone, just above the front engine mount.
6. Install the lower ends. The longer cable, marked with a red stripe, goes to the right carburetor (rider’s perspective, sitting on the bike). The shorter unmarked cable goes to the left carburetor.
7. Set the carb-end slack. Thread the brass adjuster all the way in by hand (no wrench). Back it out until the slack just disappears — the slide is right at the point of lifting. Mark the adjuster position with a Sharpie. Then turn the adjuster two full turns back in to add the correct amount of slack. Slide the locking boot down over the adjuster so it grips the carb top cap. Repeat on the other side.
8. Set the upper cable slack. Loosen the 14 mm jam nut on the upper elbow. Move the elbow to the position where the cable runs without binding, then snug the nut back down. The upper adjuster controls slack only between the throttle grip and the splitter — set it loose, with a small amount of grip play. Lock it with the 8 mm and 10 mm jam nuts.
9. Test before riding. Roll the throttle. Let go. The cable should snap shut like a mousetrap. Throttle grip free play at the grip should be 10–15° of rotation. If it hangs or feels notchy, re-check the lube and the adjuster positions.
10. Sync the carburetors. A new cable changes the slack distribution — bench-sync both progressive synchronization (slides moving together at all throttle positions) and idle synchronization (slides at the same height when the bike is idling at 1,200–1,500 rpm). See our 175/200 carb sync video and KB article below.